Want to know how to make orgonite on your own, but are unsure of what it involves? Don’t worry, I’ll walk you through the process!
Years ago I stumbled onto the concept of orgonite and found myself sinking hours into videos and how-to guides. My first thought was that the process seemed unwieldy in terms of price, materials, time, and knowledge requirements. Make orgonite myself? Was that something I could try? When I found a group of pagan crafters like myself, I suggested a party where we could make orgonite together. Everybody could pitch in for materials and share experiences, supplies, and support. So that is exactly what we did.
I won’t get into the particulars of what orgonite is or what it is said to do here. I already expected orgonite to be a concentrated form of the energy I’m used to sensing from crystals. The resin and metal shavings work together to amplify the energy of whatever else you put in. I thought that my pieces would resonate at whatever frequency I had made them for. The actuality exceeded all my expectations.
I’d like to share my first experience with you. I’m by no means an expert, but I have researched for months, even years, before starting this project and the results paid off. What I want to offer is a step by step guide of what to expect while creating orgonite. No doubt as I gain more experience I’ll be adding and changing things. In any case, once you make orgonite you never go back, haha. I have a lifelong hobby now.
So this is what we’ll be making:
These pieces are referred to as Holy HandGrenades or HHGs. They are generally more decorative and personal than TowerBusters (TBs), which tend to be thrown into bushes or around towns to give their energy to the environment. HHGs can be made with particular intentions relevant to the person who will be using them. The above are two pieces out of a chakra set. Each piece has crystals that resonate and connect with the appropriate chakra.
So let’s get started!
What you need to make orgonite:
Resin with hardener. The above is clear casting resin that can be bought in the quart size (pictured) or larger. It is pretty pricey and it’s what you’ll be spending the most money on unless you choose to add something really special. You can get cheaper brown-tinted resin at any hardware store, but if you want your pieces to be visually appealing, clear casting resin is the way to go. Muffinpan Tower Busters that get thrown into bushes are fine to make with the cheaper resin, but a lot of people prefer to use nicer resin for HHGs.
As you can see, I bought Silmar 41 online at the website on the wrapper. It came highly recommended and also included a guide as to how much hardener to add, since this is not a 50/50 ratio resin. It’s the only resin I’ve used personally and I had good results with it.
I also included a measuring cup from the dollar store to measure my amounts of resin in precise increments. This is key to success for more complicated pieces and reduces waste.
Here are your metal shavings. Any will do. Pictured above are copper granules, stainless steel, copper nuggets, aluminum, brass, and silver.
Some are cheaper than others, but what you go with should be a matter of preference. You can get these by asking around at metal shops and factories. I ordered all of mine online. Some of your metal shavings will come oily from the factory and the oil might cause an issue with the resin, so these will need to be washed in hot soapy water. I’m not going to say it was easy to wash and dry a ton of tiny metal coils, but I managed. I hear having a dehydrator helps. For me, it was lots of paper towels and air drying. Try to buy from sellers that list them as “oil free and clean” to save yourself the hassle, if you can.
I like to have a variety on hand because some pieces are more visually enhanced by silver metals, gold colored metals, darker metals, copper, etc. I like being able to pick which one I think would go best. Others argue that for simplicity’s sake you should start with only one kind of metal, and for less complicated pieces I agree.
How much metal do you need? It depends on your mold. For my 5 oz pyramid molds, I used maybe a teaspoon or two of each kind of metal I included. I had tons left over.
And here are your crystals.
Generally, to make orgonite all you will need is a quartz point, metal shavings, and resin. Don’t worry about having to add anything else; you don’t need to. However, if you want to, here are a couple things to keep in mind.
Gem shows and rock and mineral stores (NOT metaphysical stores) are good places to get chipped or rough crystals, crystals in bulk, or crystal sands/shards/dust which is perfect for orgonite. Check around and watch for good prices. Metaphysical places will try to charge a premium for these stones so buy from them only if something calls to you. Also, the crystals they sell will tend to be pretty and you won’t want to crack them up to put in orgonite where you might not even get to see them. Look for places that have row upon row of boxes containing rocks from all over the world. They’ll have small pieces and a huge variety to choose from. I hit all the gem shows I can. I know rock shops in AZ, CA, and OR that I go to and collect these things from. You can order online if you’d like, but it’s always preferable to see and feel the crystals first.
Since orgonite is primarily an energetic endeavor, it helps if you are able to sense the energy from crystals. If you can’t, ask someone who can to help you or stick with just the quartz point. Some crystals don’t want to go in orgonite. Some won’t match the other crystals you plan on putting in. If, for instance, you get one of those mixed bags and just throw a handful in, you may find that the energy of your piece is trying to pull in too many different directions at once, like a bunch of voices all trying to talk over each other. Crystals, like people, need to be balanced with each other. Make sure the ones you are putting into a piece go together. Also, don’t feel like you need to put a ton in. Less is more if you know what you’re going for.
Some of the crystals above were not small enough to fit inside my mold, so I took a hammer and crushed them into small pieces. This may seem counter-intuitive but I felt that some pieces actually amplified their energy the smaller they were. This isn’t the case with all pieces and you’ll need to tune into the kind of energy intensity and radius you are trying to achieve when selecting sizes. Sometimes dust or sand will have frenetic or short radius energy spans while bigger chunks will have a more stable, longer range radius. Also, check with each stone you are considering breaking apart. Rocks by their very nature break apart into smaller pieces all the time but the stone you are considering may not want to be used in that way.
Now, you’ll need some molds. Your mold can be whatever you want it to be, in whatever shape, in whatever material, as long as it is heat resistant. Think baking friendly. When you make orgonite, the resin curing process releases a lot of heat which will melt cheap plastics (something we learned by experience) so go along the glass, metal, silicone route. One great thing to do is scour thrift stores for their cheap ornamental glass plates, delicacy glasses, martini glasses, and that kind of thing. If you’re looking for specific shapes, like a pyramid, you’ll find sellers online that make molds for orgonite purposes.
I bought my pyramids above from StainedGlassKarin on Etsy. They worked wonderfully; the orgonite dried smooth and came out easily. The size was perfect and they are reusable. I barely had any rough edges at all even though I was expecting to. The cake pan came from the dollar store.
Other supplies you will need: covered table, adequate outdoor area, stirring sticks, plastic cups, gloves, face mask, cooking spray or mold release.
Here’s a shot of my setup. I would not recommend putting your water bottle anywhere near your resin cups! It gets hot when you’re out doing this (cold weather delays curing time so most people pour when the weather is warm) and you might mistake your cup of resin for a glass of water. I seriously almost reached for a cup of clear liquid before stopping myself and remembering I had a water bottle nearby. But, on that note, do drink a lot of water. This work is energetically intense and it’ll clean you out, so replenish when you can. I was pretty dehydrated the next day.
Anyway, you’ll need a covered table outside where it is well ventilated. Resin is super messy and no matter how careful you are it will spill and make a mess. You won’t be able to get it off surfaces easily so make sure you have a disposable table covering or you are doing it on a surface you don’t care about. Wear clothes you don’t care about getting messy either, or put on an apron. Have lots of gloves on hand because they get sticky if you are doing multi-layer pours or multiple pieces.
I’ve got all my supplies together in a box here which helps keep them orgonized (get it?) and makes them easy to access. You can lay out your crystal grids in the box next to your workspace so that you’ll have it ready to place when you’re at the right stage. This was a good suggestion provided to me by my friend who had done this before, and I have to say it made things much easier.
Alright, we’re now ready to make orgonite! We’ll be doing some actual pouring in Part 2.